A display of Africa’s history, fashion and culture in an evening with Reni Folawiyo, Kehinde Wiley, Lola Ogunnaike and a preview of the Africa Fashion exhibit.
I know you hear it, see it and most of all feel it. African culture is taking the global scene by storm. Burna Boy’s Last Last ruled the summer of 2021 and this summer is no different with new releases by Davido and Asake. Restaurants like Tatiana and Native turn up the heat with popular African dishes.
From street style, swim to formal wear African designers have grown a cult-like following with their expansive take on everything from traditional prints, bold silhouettes to neutral tones. The latest rendition: the landmark exhibit Africa Fashion makes its debut at the Brooklyn Museum.
Africa Fashion, originating last summer at the London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, expands with additional designers and the cultural retail experience – Alara. This timely display of African culture is set to be one of the largest displays of African fashion and visual media in the US within the last few decades.
A conversation with Reni Folawiyo and Kehinde Wiley
Last Thursday I had the pleasure of attending Brooklyn Talks followed by a late evening showing of the Africa Fashion exhibit. My evening started with a conversation that included Reni Folawiyo, founder of Lagos concept store Alara, and noteworthy portrait painter Kehinde Wiley moderated by Lola Ogunnaike. As pioneers in their respective fields, they bet on Africa way before anyone else did. Years ago, when media perception of Africa was diluted and tainted with harmful narratives, Folawiyo and Wiley were investing in tangible ways to change, and more importantly, own the narrative.
African art is distinct, yet unifying
Wiley’s relationship with Africa dates back to his late teens when he visited Senegal on his way to Nigeria in search of his father. Wiley is now focused on his recent development – Black Rock Senegal. A fitting chapter after years of his own exploration on the continent and heightened fame with work like the portrait of President Barack Obama. There the studio will be a residency for artists, writers and other creatives in Africa. Despite having studios and exhibits in the West, there’s a visible excitement Wiley displays when discussing Black Rock and Africa at large. Wiley recalls that Africa is something you have to experience – it has to be lived to understand it.
The importance of stories that originate and are controlled by creatives on the continent
Reni Folawiyo is redefining luxury fashion for Nigerians by encouraging people to look within rather than abroad. Folawiyo spoke a lot about her experience sourcing pieces for the Alara through human interaction and connection. Not only is she interested in finding unique designs for the store but also prioritizes the story the artist is trying to tell. Basket weaving techniques or fabric patterns can highlight the unique histories of the surrounding countries that the pieces are sourced from. While simultaneously creating, as Wiley notes, a common thread and African sensibility that unifies the culture.
To say that Africans are making their presence known and controlling the narrative about their work is understatement. When discussing the difference in the public reception we are seeing now as opposed to 15 or 20 years ago interviewees emphasized the importance of tools creatives are using to take control. Social media serves as a conduit for a deep permeation of African art, music and fashion for consumers on a global level. Both Wiley and Ogunnaike reflected on challenges experienced while growing up in a Western world that was not accepting of their culture or experiences. Thankfully there is a shift occurring. The African culture we are experiencing now is an ode to the people reclaiming the governance over their storylines.
Africa is more than a moment
Africa has long experienced the consequence of acute public interest. Ogunnaike talked about moments where Western artists developed an interest in the continent only to move once interests faded. There are moments in pop culture where there’s a lot of buzz around Africa, then it quickly quiets down. When discussing how Alara and other home grown efforts have changed that landscape, Folawiyo responds with a thought that sums up the entire talk “moments without authenticity have no longevity.”
Africa Fashion shows us exactly why this is true.
The exhibit: Africa Fashion
The exhibit features clothing, music, photography, books and video from designers and artists. Contributors span many of Africa’s countries like Nigeria, Ghana, Ethiopia, Democratic Republic of Congo and more. I spotted posters of Fela Kuti, pieces by Papa Oppong, designs by emerging artists – there was so much to see. My biggest takeaway is that African expression is not a monolith but rather filled with variety and complexity. The pieces range in its portrayal of traditional weaving, braiding and dying techniques. The exhibit does not shy away from its rich musical history. It also leaves room for the challenging political and social realities of African experiences.
Lagos based retail experience Alara inaugural pop up in the US
A visit to Alara after the talk and the exhibit was a fitting end an insightful evening. I think Brooklyn is the perfect place for Alara’s first US premiere. After I shopped and viewed the pieces it became very apparent – Alara embodies community. What better place to celebrate community than in Brooklyn. Alara offers a fashion experience like no other. You can find clothing, ceramics, homeware, books in this installation of Alara at Brooklyn Museum. The store offers pieces from brands like Tongoro, Theophilio and much more.
Africa Fashion and Alara at the Brooklyn Museum is worth the trip. Check out this amazing exhibit before it ends in October.
Live abundantly,
Bethany
